A recent snapshot of Roman diet is afforded by Erica Rowan's analysis of the content of the main sewer at Herculaneum in relation to the houses above (Rowan, 2017). The range and quality of fruit and vegetables are quite staggering, and so are meat and fish remains, and not just for the houses of the wealthy. This was notlimited to the Italian core of the Empire: archaeobotanical remains from mostly the northwestern provinces show a dramatic increase in the range of fruits and vegetables, precisely from the time of Roman conquest, and lasting little beyond the demise of the Roman Empire in the West (Bakels and Jacomet, 2003). The demand for high income elasticity food is similarly visible in the boom in the consumption of olive oil and even more so wine (Brun, 2003). Those were expensive calories, and particularly in the case of wine (Jongman, 2016).
In short, there is overwhelming evidence for improvements in the diet precisely during the peak period of Roman power and population, both in Italy and in the provinces.
This prosperity was not limited to food consumption either.Roman housing stock was of far better quality than what had comebefore or would come after. One sign of this is the time series forbuilding wood recovered from rivers in Western Germany (Fig. 10,with data from Holstein, 1980).These houses were also increasingly equipped with metalfixtures such as door and window hinges or locks, and evenwindow glass. Inside such houses we find metal kitchen utensils,furniture, nice ceramic tableware, glass and items for personalcare. As every field archaeologist knows, the quantity and quality ofRoman material culture was far better than what came before orwould come after. This is also shown in the data from the Nettunosurvey that we mentioned earlier. .........
So what do we make of all this? How can it be that the trend inthe biological standard of living is negatively correlated to otheraspects of standard of living? One interpretation would be to arguethat suggestions of Roman economic growth are wrong. WalterScheidel, for example, has questioned both the pertinence of thearchaeological time series, and the reality of the importance of theAntonine Plague (Scheidel, 2002, 2009). We do believe that he iswrong, and we do believe the story of the archaeological timeseries is a convincing one, and all the more so because each andevery new series that we discover or create shows the samepattern.A second interpretation is that the skeletal data are quite simplynot good enough, and more specifically that the chronological biasrepresents a social bias. This is a much more plausible criticism,because funerary habits did indeed change over time. From thethird century B.C. to the early to mid-first century A.D. manyRomans were cremated rather than inhumated, and perhaps moreso the higher their social status. We admit that there may be someof this, but we doubt it could completely explain the trend.........
The third possible explanation is that body length may reflecthealth but not wealth, and for now this is the most plausiblehypothesis in our view. We know that nutritional status can beimpaired very seriously by infectious disease, as the body has towork so much harder to fight off the infection, or cannot absorb thenutrients.. ......
As we havealready seen, population densities in many parts of the RomanEmpire were significantly higher than before or after. But that wasnot all: Roman culture and society were decidedly urban, withmore and far larger cities than Europe would see until the modernage.
........Such high levelsof urbanization are likely to have had serious consequences formortality levels, as is amply documented for early modernEuropean cities (Wrigley, 1978; De Vries, 1984; Jongman, 2003).This was caused by the combination of low levels of sanitation andpeople living in close proximity, creating a perfect environment forinfectious diseases of all kinds (Scobie, 1986; Scheidel, 2003).To make matters worse, Roman cities were not isolated islandsin a rural sea, but were hubs in a network of travel and transport.Most of them were close to the Mediterranean, the big ones inparticular, or close to good river transport. ...
Health and wealth in the Roman Empire Willem M. Jongman*, Jan P.A.M. Jacobs, Geertje M. Klein Goldewijk
https://delong.typepad.com/rome.pdf