Fixing common laptop issues that will come up over time

[RubiconDecision]

We use our laptops so often that we take them for granted. Here are some common problems that happen, mostly from abuse, that can then be rectified if you have an ounce of courage. There is a bit of unnatural fear about fiddling with them, mostly due to a mystique about them as machines, but also because of a generational disconnect between being a hands-on troubleshooter, and relying upon a technician. With a few precautions, practically anyone with some common sense could do things to repair basic laptop issues, even replacing a motherboard.

1. The most common issue with laptops is HEAT. Heat will always be a problem with an electronic device making a vast number of calculations but in an enclosed space with inadequate airflow. Part of this is fixable by purchasing a good quality fan on a base, and that will direct airflow into the ventilation intake port and perhaps expel more air, thus resulting in some cooling.

The problem with this is dust. More intake air results in more particles plausibly entering the ventillation path, and thus accumulating. In many cases, since the main processor produces heat, and the graphics chip produces heat, they are heat-sinked with both a physicial metal transferring agent to wick away heat, some heat sink paste that transfers heat but not electricity from the chips to the heat sink, and then to cooling fans fins for more surface area results in more dispersal of that heat, and by the fans action.

Because of this, there are access ports to get to the various mechanical elements and electrical elements. In many cases you do not have to dissassemble the entire laptop to get to these routine maintenance area. Thus dust can be removed.

The problem is static electricity. Dust adheres mostly to static charges that electrify dust particles. In times of low humidty, more dust is static charged. If you have a wood burning stove or similarly are burning firewood, then more dust will be produced and cause additional maintenance.

If you have a negative ion generator, it works by charging the dust particles and then filtering them, but some more dust could be more charged than normal, and thus a film of charged particles might appear on your walls. If so, then a similar film might be collecting on your laptop parts.

Most dust comes from human skin cells being renewed. Thus since a laptop might be used more often due to portability, then it might be collecting dust more often than a workstation that one goes to and leaves and then comes back to with less frequency.

In order to access the port, there are small metal screws so you need a set of NON-MAGNETIC jeweler's screwdrivers. Be careful with this. Some techs have a small screwdriver, but it might have a magnetic end, which is fine for other uses but NOT fine for electronics.

Go on the internet and see if someone has made a video on disassembly. Chances are good that someone has done one on a similar make and model. The make is the manufacturer. The model is a configuration that results in a line of products in a given year.

You also need two other things:
A) A wrist strap: worn to discharge static charge on your body by sending any static through a grounded plug
B) Hopefully having a mat that is for laying electronic components so that no static charge will zap the board. Glass can be static charged. Some surfaces like plastic can have a static charge. Even some laminiated wood can be static charged by friction. Do not lay an expensive board just anywhere.

When a board or part is shipped, often the wrapping will be a sheet, and that is intended to reduce static charges, and might be utilized in a pinch. Not the bubble wrap, but often a black labeled sheet for disbusing static.

Take note of the screw pattern on a piece of paper, and then remove those screws, noting lengths, and placing them in a container that won't tip over easily. In the interior, some screws ground the device while others mechanically hold components together or they are used to enclose the device. Putting in the wrong screw can result in stripping out the screw because you forced it. Screws have threads, unique ones sometimes, so that the correct screw is placed. If it isn't fitting, then it probably is the wrong screw, right?

When the heat sink is removed, there is that thermal paste I mentioned that transfers from the chip to the metal housing. It's a little expensive for paste because it often has silver in it, and comes in the tiniest dab package. A good one will have an injector so you can apply just enough to smear on the the chip when you reapply the heat sink. You need to get heat sink paste from a hobbist shop like Radio Shak or similar. Otherwise it's hard to find outside of computer shops that cater to those who build their own from parts.

The fins will probably be dirty. You shouldn't blow on any component or metal housing because your breath has moisture in it. They make canned air for this purpose to dispel dust without creating new static charges. Use your head.

Vaccums generate static charges. I wouldn't use one except strictly on metal parts without electronic components.

Replace it, taking note if any of the screws actually were special grounds for the device. There will be a lug connection if so that a screw went through. It's important that you put it back like you found it.

2. The most common problem is a sticking key. Why, because dust is always there and our hands are moistened, then some of that will aggregate inside. Worse, people commonly drink coffee or a soda or are working against a deadline and eat crackers or a candy bar. All of that plus hair finds its way inside under the keys.

Keys are simple mechanical devices. On a laptop they are usually composed of two pieces of plastic that flex and fit into detents as a kind of spring. The key itself does little but steadies this plastic spring-like device and identifies it. Under the plastic spring you have a rubber nipple-like device that can be mashed by the pressing of the key. On the underside that nipple makes contact with a keyboard membrane. When the key is pressed, it moves down and presses against the nipple, which then contacts the membrane.

The most likely issue is merely that some of that gunk that grew over time will get under that nipple, will interfere with that spring, and not allow the contact to be made to the keyboard membrane. Most often you can gently lift up by using a regular jewellers screwdriver to lift one side of the key. Then it will fold up. Underneath you will see the plastic spring (in two sections). Gently remove the plastic spring, clean away the debris, and make sure the contact is clean and clear from the nipple to the membrane.

If you do lots of these, it's easy to get overwhelmed and forget where each key goes. In windows there are layouts for key patterns, but if a person has their head screwed on straight, then you documented where each key was before removing them.

3. If one routinely uses canned air (made for that purpose) and blows away the debris, then you will have less issues with a key not working.

4. If you're a writer, you use your keyboard far more intensely than a regular user. It's possible from heavy keyboard striking to wear out those contacts. If so, then the keyboard membrane may have to be replaced. This is a pain to replace but not impossible.

The keyboard assembly can either come out all at once or you may have to remove several keys to get to access screws that fasten the keys to the membrane area. Make careful documentation of how you removed it. Once you get past that, there is usually a metal grid of many fastening sections where those plastic spring sections attached, and under that is the membrane itself.

In order to get past the metal to detach the keyboard membrane, the metal has to come out. Often there are tiny tabs which pop into place that holds this metal grid. Take a flashlight and look carefully and you will see those metal tabs. Pop up one at a time such that it comes up and off.

The membrane is attached to the motherboard by a ribbon cable. That's a flat connector that inserts into the motherboard. While connectors are "keyed" such that only one cable goes to one connector, the problem is that the ribbon is intentionally short without much slack. It will usually have a plastic tab on the ribbon so you can pull on the tab (NOT THE RIBBON CABLE) to remove it, then use that tab to insert the ribbon cable. Since the ribbon is fragile and thin, it's easy to bend it or ruin it. Be careful.

5. On the laptop there are several plastic buttons that end up pressing a contact inside. They also can collect accumulated gunk and you might have to use a tiny toothpick to gently remove that so it can mechanically move up and down. The primary places that can cause problems are near the keyboard as it's a flat surface ideal for debris.

6. If the DVD player fails, then they are very simple to replace with the same part. You have to open up the back of the case by removing say 10 screws or so, noting the lengths and threads. Often 1-3 screws will end up holding the DVD player in place and holding the connection tight. It is very simple to replace.

7. Batteries naturally are simple to replace but expensive. The most abused part of a laptop is the battery, for people leave them plugged in all of the time to recharge when they do not need them too, then they wonder why they won't hold a charge. Usually the cover comes off simply, a plastic mechanical switch holds the battery in place, and then you merely replace it.

8. A hard drive is fairly easy to replace. On the underside there is usually a special cover to access it. Minimal screws might hold it into place. It then pops out, and you put a new one in, and then load programs. Keep the old hard drive if you have important data on it. One can buy a case and plug in that old hard drive, use special software to extract or recover data. If a hard drive is not the main drive but another physical drive, then there are even Internet sites that can extract unrecoverable data and then you can load it to the other drive.

9. People drop their laptops. A memory chip could conceivably dislodge from the retaining clips. Memory chips are easy to replace, or to simply pop them back into their slots. They sit at an angle, but swivel to remove, by displacing the retaining clips, and it will swivel up. A sharp blow to a laptop could result in lots of connectors potentially dislodging from the mother board.

10. A motherboard replacement is tricky. There are often hidden screws where you wouldn't expect them. You really need to watch a video to replace them. There are tons of connectors to the speakers, the buttons, the keyboard, the WiFi modem, the screen, the DVD player, lots of USB connectors on the sides, etc. The length of the connector should be some indication as to where that connector goes. However in some circumstances for example a Wifi modem might have two wires on it labeled 1 and 2 with color coded wires. Make note of the number and color. If you're color-blind, have some help in case the color of the wires are not discernable, so you match them up correctly.

The instructions may seem daunting but they are not complicated. This assumes you can make logical analysis to determine which component is faulty. Often with older devices, the parts are cheap enough to replace, but at some point the age of the components and the number of failures, and the speed needed to process the program, mean a new computer. On the other hand if you're doing routine things, one can make an older computer last for quite awhile with inexpensive parts if you do the labor.

If I were to make instructions for something as simple as tying shoe laces, it would be much more complex in words than actions. Likewise, the instructions for replacing computer components are longer than the actual replacement.

It's vital for parts replacement that you write down model and serial numbers on the case as well as on the bad component. There is a vast variety of laptop models due to where it was sold?(what store franchise) or if it had some special change done to it, or even what country. Many reputable tech companies will sell you a reconditioned part, but make sure that this part is what you require.

Since it takes awhile to get the part in your hand, don't rely upon your memory to remember how parts fit together. One could actually film how you dissassembled it, taking note of little things that you did that might not be apparent on camera, and then easily replace that component 10 days later when the part arrives.