A full description of my Radeon X800 vid card problem

[alman9898]

I've posted this before, but no one seemed to want to reply to the further developments in the thread from a while ago so I'll post again. I've posted this on several forums, hopefully *someone* will reply because I'm just stumped.

First, my system specs

Motherboard: Abit AN8 SLI nForce4
Video Card: PowerColor ATI Radeon X800GT PCIe
Sound Card: SoundBlaster Live! 5.1
RAM: 1024MB DDR (2*512MB PC3200)
CPU: AMD64 3000+ Venice core
PSU: 500W
HDD: Seagate 80GB 7200RPM (15GB free space)
Monitor: 17" Nokia 447Xi CRT
OS: Windows XP Home Edition SP2

Problem Description:

Ever since I've gotten my new mobo and system basically (vid card, mobo, ram, cpu), I haven't been able to play any games. Now, this seems incredibly strange for a video card that can easily handle any game. However, when playing games, my computer crashes.

For example, when playing Battlefront II, the game freezes at the same point every time in one level, and then I get a VPU error, then if I continue to play, the screen will scramble, and everything will freeze until I restart. Then I get a "serious error report" from Microsoft. The message says someting about a problem with a "device driver." Also, here's the report from the VPU Recover error:

VPU Recover has reset your graphics accelerator as it was no longer responding to graphics driver commands

Now, to me, this meant my drivers were out of whack. So I updated, and updated again, and rolled back. I got Catalyst, removed it, and so forth - to no avail. Also, LucasArts said the prob was with my soundcard since there was an IRQ conflict between it and my vidcard so I moved the card down to another slot and the IRQ conflict is now gone. Battlefront II still crashes constantly, though.

As for the symptons of other games, what happens is this. With Knights of the Old Republic and Hitman, when I begin gameplay (that is, the loading screen and setup screens are fine), I get a crash with no error report. When playing Rome: Total War on high settings, I get black screens plus weird noises during battles. However, on low settings, it seemed to work just fine. I really don't think a $160 card such as the X800, though, should be playing games on low settings though...plus, the game played smoothly on my previous system with an ASUS mobo and PowerColor Radeon 9600 vid card. Next, final problem I've noted is with Halo, in which the game randomly crashes during online play, but I haven't played single player to see what happens.

Also, when running a p2p program (BitComet), after a little while I get a BSOD and all I can read off before the comp restarts is a problem with NVTcp.sys. Seems to be an nVidia problem, but I don't know how to fix this.

This problem has persisted for months and I've been deprived of having any gaming fun because of it. Please, provide some help, it would be greatly appreciated to alleviate this problem so I do *not* need to dish out another 200 bucks to purchase an nvidia card to replace this one.

NB: when I installed some new Kingston RAM awhile ago to up my RAM to 1024MB, there were problems when trying to run it in dual-channel. I changed its slot to somewhere else and the crashes stopped. I don't know if this is the problem. (I *think* Halo still crashed before this, so I don't know how much of a problem this can be). I actually haven't removed this yet, but could this be the problem? It'd seem strange, though, that this would cause vidcard errors.

I'll try to get the error report generated on restart since the p2p error report and VPU recover restart error reports by MS end up being exactly the same, basically. One more thing, I have the SLI switch-key set to "normal." Should this be removed completely if running an ATI card, btw?

One last thing: I'm not OC'ing.

[gg_wong]

um.... why did u get a SLI mobo with an ati card?

[Aristocrat]

For starters, the fact its an ATI card shouldn't have anything to with it, you can use a single card on SLI boards no problem.
Having the switch at normal SHOULD mean that you can only use one card and SLI isnt enabled, check your BIOS if you want to be sure.
For the record, did you do a fresh install of windows on the system (Im assuming its an older hard drive,,,,it didnt already have windows on it did it?).
What is the type of PSU you have, 500watts means jack if its a crap brand and the PSU is all over the shop, theres a possibility that power problems are a cause.
Another thing, does your card need or have a power cord connected to it? if it does try and see if the cord is faulty.
It could (theoretically) be high temp related, but it sounds highly doubtful in this case, but check them for good measure (at load).

As for the P2P program, check for spyware and viruses (I just dont trust P2P programs anymore...period).....If it was me Id uninstall it and look for a safer alternative if one exists.

Also, if you have reinstalled windows (formatted then installed) after all the new hardware, then again try removing all VPU related drivers (make sure you remove every trace), and then install the newest ones....a google search will tell how to remove them correctly and what the newest drivers are.

If after all this you still have problems: Either your Video card has problems, easy way to see is to try it another computer.
OR
Your motherboard has problems (which I suspect it might) in which case RMA it and have them send a replacement board.(or return it wherever your bought it and have them test it.

[alman9898]

A couple quick answers before I do anything:

first, no I didn't uninstall windows, I just uninstalled my old vid card drivers.

secondly, my PSU is Powerline (from what I get from actually looking at it). The PSU came with the case, btw.

btw, I can't test this vid card on another comp because my mobo is the only one with PCIe.

[Proximus]

Let me get this straight, you switched most of your hardware including motherboard but did not re-install windows? This is bound to create issues.
Most hardware geeks would say that a PSU that comes with the chassi is crap, but I don't think it is the PSU that is the problem here.

[Incinerate_IV]

When you upgrade, especially when you upgrade your mobo, you have to reinstall Windows, there is NO way to completely remove all the drivers (Not even driver cleaner will remove all of them). I just upgraded my mobo a month ago, at first I thought I can get by and just uninstall old driver and install new driver, but it didn't work, I had so many problems and it even caused hard drive corruption, then I give up and just did a clean install of Windows.

Also if you are switching from a nVIDIA card to a ATI card, you have to do a clean install. You might be able to get by with just reinstall driver with an ATI card.

BTW download prime95 and do a memory stress test and see if there's any fault with your memory, the problem could be memory related.

[Aristocrat]

Download all the newest drivers for all your hardware and save it to cd or flashdrive.
Format your harddrive (save anything from the computer you need on a flashdrive or cd/DVD) then install windows from scratch, then install the newest drivers that came with your motherboard, sound card, video card, etc.
I tend to think that memory problem is due to a driver conflict with your motherboard, but it could be bad memory so test that as well.
If your memory's fine you should be able to run in it dual channel no problem.
Your PSU should be fine, I just dont like PSU's that come with cases as most are poorer quality and Ive built computers that people refused to buy a new PSU for and what happens a few months down the track but the PSU goes and takes thousands of dollars worth of hardware with it.
Besides a quality PSU can last from computer to computer saving you money in the long one. But the majority of people get along fine.

The reason you need to format then reinstall is so that all your old drivers are gone. So you can install your motherboard drivers from scratch, as windows probaly doesnt know you have new motherboard atm.

[alman9898]

Okay so this is what I'm going to do:

1st run prime95 for one day with a torture test
2nd run SpeedFan to see if the PSU is giving out enough voltage
3rd post results here and on other forums
4th reformat (if necessary)

How's that sound?

[Aristocrat]

Yes, but you really should reformat anyway, your old motherboard drivers may (probaly are) causing windows problems, and if you think installing new video card drivers is a pain, Motherboard ones are essentialyl impossible to do properly without a reformat.
Despite that, do what you said, and if the problem can be solved to your satisfaction without a reformat, it doesnt really matter then does it.
(But I sincerely doubt a reformat wont be necessary, so theres 1-2 hours of your time down the toilet when you have to install windows....damn I hate that).

[OTZ]

Screw prime and speedfan - reformat first!

[Proximus]

Screw prime and speedfan - reformat first!

Exactly, doing anything but reinstalling windows first is just a waste of time. I'm pretty sure that a reinstall will solve your problem.

[alman9898]

I have to try other alternatives first, I mean I do have 65 gigs of info and it's not all games (at least 5-6 gigs of music)... and I don't have 2gig flash drives, I'd have to use 15-20 CDs I believe to get all the info I need saved.

EDIT: it also wouldn't hurt to run tests seeing as this is an excuse for me to get a newer, bigger hard driver (160 gig SATA )

[Proximus]

I have to try other alternatives first, I mean I do have 65 gigs of info and it's not all games (at least 5-6 gigs of music)... and I don't have 2gig flash drives, I'd have to use 15-20 CDs I believe to get all the info I need saved.

EDIT: it also wouldn't hurt to run tests seeing as this is an excuse for me to get a newer, bigger hard driver (160 gig SATA )

You really should get a new harddrive, 15GB free it's nothing. And you can easily find a 160GB SATA HDD for like 70-80$. Myself has one "system" drive with Windows and every application on it (two different partions), then I have another storage drive with My documents on it. That way I can re-install Windows with so little loss of data as possible.

[PyrrhusIV]

You can get a 250GB SATA Seagate Barracuda Hard-Drive off newegg for $100 USD.

Same here Proximus, one small (Usually a Raptor) but fast one for OS and other important programs, and one large drive for everything else.

[alman9898]

Already need to clear up something. My dad said we can just COMPLETELY use a transfer feature to send all info from one drive to the next without any need for installation. Ive been thinking this would be a bad idea, seeing as it would transfer over the old driver info too so what do you think? Complete fresh reinstall of XP on the new hard drive and then just save my info on 20 or so CD-RWs (yes, I have 7 gigs of music + other stuff). btw, my current drive isn't sata so I don't know if I'd be able to use RAID and whatnot to partition more than one physical drive, any info on that?

[OTZ]

You can choose to transfer only the stuff you want to move - music, documents, photos. The OS/drivers/other applications do not have to be moved at all. Burning stuff to DVD is also an option.

As for the RAID, only identical drives should be used. In your case, both HDDs can still be hooked up, just not in a RAID format (I think - someone correct me if I am wrong). If you chooses to do this, you can partition your new HDD (I like to have a few partitions/drives - GAMES, APPS, Downloads, Music, and one for the OS and apps - that way if I have to reinstall windows I don't lose everything, just the OS related programs) and transfer stuff over if need be.

[alman9898]

Here's the thing, if I get a 160 gig drive or a 250 gig drive, then that would be my main info drive since I do want more storage space for upcoming games - which means I 'd have to relegate my OS drive to the slower 80 gig one. What do you guys think? Also, how important is transfer rate (3.0Gb/s) compared to seek time, really?

[Aristocrat]

Partition your new hard drive into whatever you want, but have about 5-10gb (overkill) for your OS (windows).
Transfer your music and stuff to your new drive on a parition different to where your OS is(You cannot RAID Hard drives unless they are identical, well Ive heard you can but it seemed like too much bother and even more unstable...so forget about it anyway).
Install windows in the OS partition on your new hard drive, during installation format your old hardrive.
After installation install all the newest drivers for your hardware and then your done, unless you want to send your music back to the original hard drive, so you can use your newer one for more important stuff (like games, games, games, and uh games).

[alman9898]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822145087

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16822148111

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16822144701

how's this drive look? shouldn't cause any conflicts with my current one, I'd suspect, but my current is seagate.

btw, which brand is the most reliable? Ive always heard it went hitachi, seagate, then WD, but this WD drive does look tantalizing especially with a 16mb cache compared to 8mb cache of the other ones.

[Incinerate_IV]

http://www23.tomshardware.com/storage.html