Fresh air, space, peace and quiet
· Rugged open landscape
· Ancient nomadic lifestyle still common
· Fascinating religious practices (Tantric Buddhist)
· Friendly people
· Few tourists
· Rare animals, birds, fish and plants
· Wild flowers and medicinal plants
· Great fishing, swimming, hiking and biking
· Horse riding
· Camel riding
· Yak riding
· Excellent art - ancient, modern and religious
· Cheap cashmere
· No inconvenient restrictions on women
· Fishing and Hunting
· Fine vodka and fermented mare's milk
Happily, we arrived at our ger site for the night where we met Purederj and Enkhlyya, our elderly Mongolian hosts. We were based at the foot of a set of granite rocks that towered 100 metres above the four gers that comprised the family’s camp. We were shown our ger for the night, which housed the traditional, colorful furniture and about 200 flies. Of course the decor is spectacular, but in terms of cleanliness and the volume of flies, even Gana’s Guest House had nothing on this place! We immediately wished we’d brought our mosquito net, but the beds felt comfortable enough.
Next, we were taken into Purederj and Enkhlyya’s ger, which housed the traditional Buddhist alter directly opposite the door. On the right hand side of the ger was Purederj (the man’s) bed, and his wife’s was on the opposite side. Just offset from the middle of the ger (with the support columns) and close to the door was the furnace, which exhausted through the ger’s roof. On the other side of the columns, close to the Buddhist alter, was a table, with four very short, colorful stools where we were seated. Enkhlyya poured generous (FAR too generous!!!) bowls of airag – fermented mare’s milk. I managed one sip of what tasted like off-milk, my entire mouth exploding in protest. Lloyd managed only a little more. Not something that western tummies are ready for! We were also offered little curd-like patties, shaped by hand from some milk product (could be cow, camel, goat or horse!) that was sun-dried on the roof of the ger. I wasn’t brave enough to try it.
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